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☆ Millennials rejoice: Wedge sandals are back!
▼ + stars: | 2024-03-02 | by ( Katie Notopoulos | ) www.businessinsider.com time to read: +2 min

Chloé's runway show this week featured models (and celebs) in high-heeled wedge sandals. It wasn't the clothes on the models but rather the image of the celebrities sitting in the front row — all wearing big, chunky platform wedge sandals. Technically, Vogue already declared "wedge sandals are back" last April. AdvertisementElder millennials have suffered the indignity of seeing some of the trends of their youth come back — low-rise jeans, trucker hats. But wedge sandals?

Persons: —, Chemena Kamali, millennials, Vanessa Friedman Organizations: Service, Vogue France, Vogue, New York Times Locations: Paris

☆ There’s a New (Old) It Girl in Paris
▼ + stars: | 2024-03-01 | by ( Vanessa Friedman | ) www.nytimes.com time to read: +1 min

For years the Chloé Girl was effectively another, more branded, version of the It Girl. I can’t think of another label that has such an imaginary person, rather than a logo, to embody it. That Chloé Girl is redolent of youth and energy; of freedom and romping in the sun-kissed daisy fields. She is a little bit hippie, a little bit rocker, a little bit romantic and a lot insouciant. And although that version of the Chloé Girl had been absent from fashion for awhile, on Thursday in Paris Chemena Kamali, the new creative director of Chloé, brought her back.

Persons: Gaby Aghion, Karl Lagerfeld, Phoebe Philo, Stevie Nicks, Jane Birkin, Kate Moss, Kamali, Chloé Locations: Paris

☆ Dressing the Forgotten Woman
▼ + stars: | 2024-02-29 | by ( Vanessa Friedman | ) www.nytimes.com time to read: 1 min

“As always, she wakes up just before the alarm goes off.”“As always, she gets up in the dark and walks into the bathroom.”“As always, she quickly looks into the mirror. Yes, That’s her. Forty years old, mother of one, single, working.”So went the voice-over at the Undercover show: a prose poem written and read by the film director Wim Wenders. Certainly, a woman I know. Conventional wisdom has it that the promise on the runway should be aspirational — the person I want to be (richer, thinner, taller, more fabulous, more rebellious, more sexy, etc.)

Persons: ”, That’s, Wim Wenders

☆ Breasts, Breasts, Everywhere
▼ + stars: | 2024-02-28 | by ( Vanessa Friedman | ) www.nytimes.com time to read: +1 min

That’s all I could think when yet another Saint Laurent model appeared wearing what was essentially a nylon stocking transformed into a dress. Of the 48 looks teetering out on needle-sharp stilettos in the Saint Laurent show, only 12 didn’t have breasts front and center (and of those 12, three were minidresses with their own built-in garter belts to attach to the stockings below). Forget about the practicality of making a pantyhose dress, or the question of who would want to wear it in the first place. Maybe at one point, when Yves Saint Laurent was first pushing boundaries and making a sheer blouse back in 1966, so much visible skin was a shocking, subversive thing in public or on a fashion runway. Maybe in the beginning it was empowering: an escape from the prison of old mores and outdated gender rules.

Persons: Laurent, Saint Laurent, Yves Saint Laurent

☆ Get Ready for a Fashion Vibe Shift
▼ + stars: | 2024-02-25 | by ( Vanessa Friedman | ) www.nytimes.com time to read: +1 min

There’s a change underway in fashion. Continued in New York, at Willy Chavarria, who set a family-size table of sartorial intention. And in Milan, was picked up by Francesco Risso at Marni, who boiled fashion down to its essence so it could begin again. Papering in white a cavernous warren of rooms under a railway track, so it resembled some sort of petri dish, Mr. Risso birthed a very chic primal scream. These would not be easy garments to wear, but they sure jolt you out of your torpor.

Persons: John Galliano’s Maison, Willy Chavarria, Francesco Risso, Risso, Outerwear Locations: New York, Milan, Marni

☆ Prada Schools the TikTok Crowd
▼ + stars: | 2024-02-23 | by ( Vanessa Friedman | ) www.nytimes.com time to read: +1 min

Miuccia Prada, currently American Vogue’s pioneering septuagenarian cover girl, was standing backstage after the Prada show, bedecked in emeralds and jade and looking slightly terrified as Emma Watson and hordes of well-wishers and journalists swarmed around her like locusts. Such is life when you transcend the role of designer and become more like a divining rod that indicates which way the cultural water is flowing. Toward “history,” she said as her co-creative director, Raf Simons, sipped Prosecco beside her. Or to be specific, toward the way history teaches us about where we are going. Besides, fashion can bring the point to life as well as any lecture.

Persons: Miuccia Prada, Prada, Emma Watson, ”, Raf Simons, sipped, Simons, ” It’s, “ Oppenheimer Locations: Milan, Russia, Ukraine

☆ Was This the Most Democratic Fashion Show Ever?
▼ + stars: | 2024-02-22 | by ( Vanessa Friedman | ) www.nytimes.com time to read: +1 min

Autocracy may be much in the news, and increasingly in vogue depending on the electorate, but as Milan Fashion Week began, democracy was in the air. Then 1,000 viewers signed up to sit “front row” from home, their faces live-streamed on screens all around the show venue, so as they were watching the audience and the models on the catwalk, the audience and the models were watching back. So the crowd at the show could see, for example, the viewer who decided to disguise themselves using an alien filter, resembling a creature from “War of the Worlds,” or the viewer who situated her generous cleavage right in the middle of the screen, or the ones who watched with family members, or their dogs. So the show crowd would be reminded, in other words, of the people it was really all about. Fashion, in essence the most dictatorial of disciplines, where designers traditionally handed down styles like edicts from on high, has been theoretically democratizing for awhile now — ever since it jumped from the salon to the store via ready-to-wear, which changed the barriers to entry from class and caste to pocketbook.

Persons: Glenn Martens Organizations: Milan, Diesel

☆ ‘Feud’ Style Recap: Fake Eyelashes as Armor
▼ + stars: | 2024-02-15 | by ( The Styles Desk | ) www.nytimes.com time to read: +1 min

This article contains spoilers for Episode 4 of “Feud: Capote vs. the Swans.”As the latest episode of “Feud” begins, Babe Paley (Naomi Watts) is facing radiation treatment for cancer and the terrifying possibility of her death. But she does so in a full dress and heels. At the same time, Truman Capote (Tom Hollander), who is unraveling from heavy substance abuse, tours his friends around a rehab facility, with a long scarf over his shoulder and a newsboy cap. VANESSA FRIEDMAN There were a few key moments for me in this episode. First, when Babe ties her Hermès scarf around her bag, which set off a trend that is still going on today.

Persons: ”, Babe Paley, Naomi Watts, Truman Capote, Tom Hollander, Paley, VANESSA FRIEDMAN, Babe Organizations: Swans, ”

☆ Why Beyoncé Came to Bushwick
▼ + stars: | 2024-02-14 | by ( Vanessa Friedman | ) www.nytimes.com time to read: +1 min

Only two days after Taylor Swift bestowed some of her fairy dust on a niche New York Fashion Week label by wearing Area jeans to the Super Bowl, an even more unlikely moment of celebrity-show synergy occurred: Beyoncé showed up in a warehouse in deep Brooklyn for the Luar show. Yup, Beyoncé’s first public appearance after announcing Renaissance “Act II,” and her first appearance at a New York Fashion Week show in years, was in Bushwick. It’s the fashion equivalent of winning the attention lottery. The guest of honor made her entrance covered in a blinding number of rhinestones, with mirrored shades and a cowboy hat, toting a Luar bag that she carefully held front and center so it would be in every photograph. Was this a clue to her coming album couturier?

Persons: Taylor Swift, Beyoncé, Beyoncé’s, ”, Blake Lively, Brie Larson, Gabrielle Union, Wade, Rachel Zegler, Michael Kors Organizations: York, Super, New Locations: Brooklyn, Bushwick

☆ A Downtown Darling Says Farewell. Does It Matter?
▼ + stars: | 2024-02-13 | by ( Vanessa Friedman | ) www.nytimes.com time to read: +1 min

On Monday, Puppets and Puppets, the six-year-old New York fashion brand/art project, had its last show. She is pulling up stakes and moving to London, she told The New York Times last week. And even though Ms. Mark was nominated for a CFDA award as emerging designer of the year, the clothes were never all that good. They often fit weirdly or couldn’t really be called clothes, or didn’t seem entirely finished. Ms. Mark was trained as a fine artist, not a designer, and she was essentially learning in real time and in front of the world.

Persons: Carly Mark, Highsnobiety, Miguel Adrover, Mark, Edie Sedgwick Organizations: New York Times Locations: New York, N.Y, London

☆ How Can I Update My Millennial Style?
▼ + stars: | 2024-02-12 | by ( Vanessa Friedman | ) www.nytimes.com time to read: +1 min

Here’s my problem: I am stuck in a millennial sense of fashion — tight jeans, a looser top, cardigans and ballet flats or riding boots. What’s the easiest way to update my style? Gen Z has been mocking millennial style with so much glee in the last few years that doing so has become its own TikTok trend. But seeing this as a generational issue is, it seems to me, a mistake. In fact, do not think in terms of time periods and their fashion.

Persons: I’m, Jen, Gen Z, X, millennials Organizations: courant Locations: Columbia, Md

☆ Tiger Woods Introduces His New Brand: Sun Day Red
▼ + stars: | 2024-02-12 | by ( Lauren Hirsch | Vanessa Friedman | ) www.nytimes.com time to read: +1 min

For even those who have only a passing interest in golf, one of the sport’s most memorable images is of Tiger Woods playing his way to another major tournament victory while wearing a red polo shirt with a white Nike swoosh. In January, Mr. Woods announced the end of his 27-year deal with Nike, which had made him hundreds of millions of dollars. The partnership was marked by memorable ads and, of course, the red Nike shirts that Mr. Woods wore during many final rounds on Sundays. It will be stitched with a tiger in the center, the logo for his new brand under TaylorMade: Sun Day Red. (Mr. Woods switched to FootJoy shoes from Nike after his car crash in 2021.)

Persons: Tiger Woods, Woods, ”, David Abeles Organizations: Nike, Mr, Sun

☆ The Founding Father of a New American Style
▼ + stars: | 2024-02-10 | by ( Vanessa Friedman | ) www.nytimes.com time to read: +1 min

An old warehouse was bathed in a red light, and there were roses on every chair. Julia Fox, wearing a lavish white robe, Vermeer hat and not much else, chatted to Amanda Lepore and Sam Smith. Then a screen came down on a black velvet curtain and a short film started to play. Even if it’s just making clothes — as long as they aren’t just clothes. That has been the mantra for long enough, set to the tune of whispering cashmere.

Persons: Willy Chavarria, Julia Fox, Vermeer, Amanda Lepore, Sam Smith, hasn’t, it’s Organizations: New York Locations: Greenpoint , Brooklyn

☆ Whatever Happens at the Super Bowl, She’s Already Won
▼ + stars: | 2024-02-09 | by ( Vanessa Friedman | ) www.nytimes.com time to read: +1 min

Whichever team takes home the Vince Lombardi Trophy in Super Bowl LVIII, the San Francisco 49ers or the Kansas City Chiefs, there is already one indubitable winner. Not Taylor Swift, whose interest in football has attracted almost as many conspiracy theorists as fans, or even the N.F.L. itself, which is trying to figure out how to hang onto its sudden influx of Taylor-related female fans, but rather another player’s significant other: Kristin Juszczyk. On Sunday, as her husband takes the field, Ms. Juszczyk, 29, will be in the stands, modeling one of her creations to an estimated 200 million viewers. And Ms. Juszczyk didn’t even have to buy a $7 million 30-second ad spot to get it.

Persons: Vince Lombardi, Taylor Swift, Taylor, Kristin Juszczyk, Juszczyk, Kyle Juszczyk, Juszczyk’s, Olivia Culpo, Christian McCaffrey, Brittany Mahomes, Patrick Mahomes, Swift Organizations: San Francisco 49ers, Kansas City Chiefs, 49ers, Footwear, Vogue Locations: catwalks

☆ Some Fall Out of Vogue. She Jumped.
▼ + stars: | 2024-02-07 | by ( Vanessa Friedman | ) www.nytimes.com time to read: +1 min

When Gabriella Karefa-Johnson, the fashion editor-personality who became famous as the first Black woman to style a Vogue cover (in 2021) and even more famous after she got into a social media brouhaha with Kanye West, was interviewing for her first big fashion job at Vogue, she ended up, not surprisingly, in front of Anna Wintour. Ms. Wintour asked Ms. Karefa-Johnson where she wanted to be in 10 years. Ms. Karefa-Johnson answered — as Ms. Wintour once had, when asked a similar question — editor in chief of Vogue. Almost exactly a decade later, Ms. Karefa-Johnson doesn’t necessarily want that any more. “I resigned as kind of a material action of solidarity and because it was just time for me to move on,” Ms. Karefa-Johnson, 32, said recently.

Persons: Gabriella Karefa, Johnson, Anna Wintour, Ms, Wintour, Karefa, —, Kamala Harris, Amanda Gorman, Margot Robbie, Barbie ”, Condé Nast, “ Organizations: Kanye, Vogue Locations: Israel, Gaza

☆ How Vintage Won the Grammys Red Carpet
▼ + stars: | 2024-02-05 | by ( Vanessa Friedman | ) www.nytimes.com time to read: +1 min

But recently a different trend has been emerging, and at the 66th Grammys it reached critical mass. Indeed, it’s so applause worthy, here’s hoping it isn’t a trend at all but rather the signal of a permanent shift in the fashion-Hollywood industrial complex. Or as it is apparently now known, “archival” fashion. “Archival” here is being used to refer to anything that simply isn’t new. (Well, it was getting a little ridiculous to refer to two-season-old clothes as “vintage.”) That could mean clothes from a brand archive, or a personal one.

Persons: Louis Vuitton, Pharrell Williams’s

“Kimberly Akimbo” won last year’s Tony Award for best musical, and “Parade” won the Tony for best musical revival. Only “Kimberly Akimbo” and “Sweeney Todd” are still running on Broadway, and if you want to see them in New York, now’s the time: “Kimberly Akimbo” has announced plans to close on April 28 and “Sweeney Todd” is expected to end its run on May 5. “Kimberly Akimbo” is planning a national tour that is scheduled to start in Denver in September. A “Shucked” tour is to begin in Nashville in November, and a “Parade” tour is to begin in January in Schenectady, N.Y., and then Minneapolis. “Some Like It Hot” had announced an intention to tour starting this fall but has not announced any venues.

Persons: Adrianna Hicks, Christian Borle, Billy Wilder, Jack Lemmon, Tony Curtis, Jesse Green, ”, J, Harrison, NaTasha Yvette Williams, Scott Wittman, Marc Shaiman, Wittman, Shaiman, “ Kimberly Akimbo, Leo Frank, “, “ Sweeney Todd, Barber, Stephen Sondheim, “ Kimberly Akimbo ”, Tony, “ Sweeney Todd ” Organizations: Shubert Theater, Broadway, New York Times Locations: Georgia, New York, Denver, Nashville, Schenectady, N.Y, Minneapolis

☆ Why So Many People Can’t Get That Galliano Show Out of Their Heads
▼ + stars: | 2024-01-31 | by ( Vanessa Friedman | ) www.nytimes.com time to read: +1 min

There is a certain irony to the fact that of all the shows that took place during couture last week, the one designed to be the most off-line — the one conceived as an in-person experience rather than as a simple catwalk — is the one that ended up going the most viral. The one that no one seems to be able to stop talking about — not the fashion world, nor its millions of followers. I am speaking of the Maison Margiela Artisanal show by John Galliano. It was sumptuous, excessive, rife with roiling emotion communicated in cloth, with models vamping, skittering and otherwise willing to sacrifice themselves on the pyre of unfettered imagination. It was the sort of immersive show that hasn’t been seen in more than a decade.

Persons: —, John Galliano, ”, Pont Alexandre III, candied, hasn’t Organizations: Maison

☆ The Costumes of the Very, Very Rich
▼ + stars: | 2024-01-26 | by ( Vanessa Friedman | ) www.nytimes.com time to read: +1 min

The night of the wolf moon — the first full moon of the new year — also happened to be the last night of the couture, when John Galliano recreated a decaying Paris nightclub in the vaulted caverns beneath Paris’s Pont Alexandre III bridge across the Seine. Crepe paper streamers the color of Madeira wine were draped across walls and dangled from the ceiling amid banged-up wooden bistro chairs and scratched-up tables. At the end, the audience members were so overwrought they didn’t just clap, they stamped their feet hard enough to make the floorboards shake. It has been awhile since anyone had experienced a world-building show quite like it. It looked tortured, in a way that is rarely considered acceptable anymore, and extraordinary at the same time.

Persons: John Galliano, Paris’s Pont Alexandre III, Freddie Mercury, Maison Locations: Paris, Paris’s, Madeira

☆ Haley’s Fancy-but-Not-So-Fancy Dress May Have Been Just What She Intended
▼ + stars: | 2024-01-24 | by ( Vanessa Friedman | More About Vanessa Friedman | ) www.nytimes.com time to read: +1 min

Exactly the sort of style, for example, that might appeal to Republicans with a yen for the old days. Partiers.”And while Mr. Trump clearly intended his sartorial criticism to be a barb at Ms. Haley — perhaps an implication that he knows fancy (or his wife, Melania, does) and his rival does not — the dress was in fact a pretty effective representation of how Ms. Haley has used her image as part of her campaign strategy. That starts with the fact that she even wore a dress to make her speech, rather than, say, the standard female politician’s trouser suit or even the American flag Ralph Lauren sweater she had been sporting on the road. If you want something done, ask a woman.’”And in the semiology of clothing, a dress often suggests “woman.” Mr. Trump of all people should understand the subconscious messaging. He is, after all, the man who, as president, announced that the women in his administration should “dress like women.”

Persons: Teri Jon, Trump, Haley —, Melania, Haley, Ralph Lauren, Margaret Thatcher, ’, ” Mr, ” Organizations: “, American Locations: British

☆ In Paris, Stars Going Shopping
▼ + stars: | 2024-01-24 | by ( Vanessa Friedman | More About Vanessa Friedman | ) www.nytimes.com time to read: +1 min

Ms. Qualley has the Grammys, with her musician-husband Jack Antonoff, looming on her calendar next month. Still, even off the red carpet, couture is having something of a movie moment. Both series focus on the idea of the couture as a riposte to the horrors and deprivation of the war; a clarion call of humanity. Given what is going on in the world, you can understand why filmmakers — and the designers who love them — might think it was a good time to revisit this particular period. In any case, it’s all starting to seem a lot like life imitating art imitating life.

Persons: Virginie Viard, Margaret Qualley, Qualley, Jack Antonoff, Glenn Close, Juliette Binoche, Chanel, Binoche, Coco Chanel, Carmel Snow, ”, Dior, — Organizations: Apple, Disney Locations: Spanish, Europe, United States

☆ The Cosmic Genius of Iris Van Herpen
▼ + stars: | 2024-01-23 | by ( Vanessa Friedman | ) www.nytimes.com time to read: +1 min

Possible that said couture show is not an invitation-only affair with gold ballroom chairs and the latest celebrity du jour, but rather one open to the public. “Iris Van Herpen: Sculpting the Senses,” a one-woman exhibition that opened at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs in late November and scheduled to run through April 28. Five years in the making, “Sculpting the Senses” crystallizes why Ms. Van Herpen, 39, is the youngest female designer to be granted a solo show at the museum in its 140 years of existence. And why, more than a decade after being invited to join the ranks of Paris’s couturiers, Ms. Van Herpen has also been made a Chevalier des Arts et Lettres, an honor presented by the French Ministry of Culture. “She has managed to create a unique world, somewhere between fairy tale and science fiction,” said Christine Macel, director of the Musée des Arts Décoratifs.

Persons: Iris Van Herpen, Van Herpen, Paris’s couturiers, ”, Christine Macel Organizations: Décoratifs, Paris’s, des, French Ministry of Culture, Arts Locations: Paris, “

Mayor Fletcher Bowron of Los Angeles welcomed people to the first Emmy Awards ceremony, which was held Jan. 25, 1949, at the Hollywood Athletic Club. Before there was a Peak TV era, before there were performances from Mary Tyler Moore, Cloris Leachman or Julia Louis-Dreyfus, there was Judy Splinters. “Judy Splinters,” a children’s television show hosted by a 20-year-old ventriloquist named Shirley Dinsdale and her puppet — wait for it — Judy Splinters, was nominated for the so-called most popular program at the very first Emmy Awards. All nominated shows had to have been filmed in Los Angeles, and the award show itself was only broadcast on a local station in Los Angeles. “It was so brand-new,” Dinsdale told The Los Angeles Times in 1998.

Persons: Fletcher Bowron, Mary Tyler Moore, Cloris Leachman, Julia Louis, Dreyfus, Judy, Shirley Dinsdale, Dinsdale, John Leverence, —, ” Dinsdale, “, ” Leverence, ”, That’s Organizations: Hollywood Athletic Club, Television Academy, Los Angeles Times, Los Angeles, KTLA, Times, Lucky Locations: Los Angeles, Los

☆ The Undoing of George Santos
▼ + stars: | 2023-12-01 | by ( Vanessa Friedman | More About Vanessa Friedman | ) www.nytimes.com time to read: +2 min

It may get prosecutors excited, but the general public finds it boring. They make the narrative of wrongdoing personal, because one thing almost everyone can relate to is luxury goods. There’s a reason even Richard Nixon boasted in a 1952 speech that his wife, Pat, didn’t “have a mink coat. In this, as in so many things, the former president appears to be an exception to the rule.) “The notion of elected officials being public servants may be a polite fiction, but it is a polite fiction we expect politicians to maintain,” Mr. Blake said.

Persons: —, Richard Nixon, Pat, didn’t, Wilentz, Mr, Blake, David Axelrod, ” Organizations: Democratic, Institute of Politics, University of Chicago Locations: America, Washington, ”

☆ Rare Gathering of Former First Ladies Shows Style, and Subtle Differences
▼ + stars: | 2023-11-28 | by ( Vanessa Friedman | More About Vanessa Friedman | ) www.nytimes.com time to read: +1 min

In any other circumstance it would have been a shocking sight. Not only that, but she created a situation in which Mrs. Trump was seated right next to Michelle Obama. Mrs. Trump has eschewed almost every major event since leaving the White House in January 2021, including her husband’s several court appearances (the rare exception being his November 2022 announcement that he was once again running for president). But on Tuesday, as is custom, she joined the three other living former first ladies — Mrs. Obama, Hillary Clinton and Laura Bush — as well as Jill Biden, the current first lady, at the Glenn Memorial United Methodist Church in Atlanta, for Mrs. Carter’s memorial service. “Rosalynn Carter would be so pleased she brought all of you together on this day,” the journalist Judy Woodruff said.

Persons: Rosalynn Carter, Melania Trump, Trump, Michelle Obama, Obama, Hillary Clinton, Laura Bush —, Jill Biden, “ Rosalynn Carter, Judy Woodruff Organizations: White, Glenn Memorial United Methodist Church Locations: Mar, Atlanta

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